Cracked open the transmission. I haven’t measured anything yet but, there’s some visible wear that could warrant replacement.
I managed to do a few more things tonight. I was able to get the engine up and drain the oil. I really wish I had done that prior to pulling the motor… I pulled the distributor, VTEC solenoid, Radiator Hoses, Started Motor, and a few other things.
Not much of an update tonight. I pulled the intake manifold off and labeled some more of the tubing and wiring plugs. Here’s a shot of my Number 4 Intake Plenum. I’m guessing my valve guides are worn out and leaking oil from the top of the head into the intake. I’ll ask the pro’s on Honda-Tech for their explanation.
Picture was taken with a Nikon Coolpix S3100 using the Macro Scene setting.
asr_fail on Flickr.
I tried installing my ASR subframe brace and my Integra Type R rear sway bar tonight but the very last fucking bolt in the D-Bracket was feeling like it was cross-threading… So, I stopped. Now, I’ll have to remove everything and chase the threads from the opposite side. I guess it’s just as well because I’d like to put some anti-seize on the rear lower control arm bolts.
My 1995 and my 1997.
I dunno. I’m more partial to the vertical back of the 5th generation hatchback. Although, the sixth gen. is growing on me.
Djwalley, I’ve already had a couple of people get pissed at me when I told them my EK is my winter car… I feel kinda bad driving it.
My new baby. 1997 Honda Civic CX Hatchback. Red.
That’s right. I now own a Red 1995 Honda Civic CX Hatchback AND a Red 1997 Honda Civic CX Hatchback.
It’s an addiction. Most of you wouldn’t understand.
Additional Items for My Civic Build
I few weeks ago I posted about the build I want to do / finish on my Civic. I’ve done some additional research and I’ll need the following items in addition to what I’ve posted here: http://adam-a-hc.tumblr.com/post/12533737361/whaddya-think
- Fuel Pump 255lmp
- Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Fuel Rail
Why? I’ll be installing higher liter per minute injectors (440s) to keep my air-to-fuel ratio on the slightly rich side of stoichometric reaction to keep combustion temperatures down and to take advantage of the additional air my supercharger will supply. To support the injectors, I’ll need a pump that can supply the fuel otherwise the injectors wont be able to do anything. Additional fuel will raise the pressure in my lines because the velocity of the fuel will increase (same diameter line flowing MORE liquid means the velocity and the pressure increase) Q=K*sqrt(P) where Q is flow, P is pressure, and K is a discharge factor (This equation is for sprinklers but it’s the same basic principle).
High fuel pressure causes the engine to run rich at idle and will destroy my mileage and foul my spark plugs. The Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) will serve to decrease the pressure by replacing the stock FPR with one that has a larger orifice and therefore restricts flow less. (I think that’s how it works).
I’m not sure how important the fuel rail is in a build. The machined internal surface will provide efficiency gains in fuel delivery and flow quality. Mainly, I think they look nice.
Adds ~ $300 to the build if I buy new. But, fuel rails have no moving parts so I’ll probably buy that used and save ~$60. The FPR I’ll have to see if people suggest buying that new or used. Fuel pumps are relatively cheap new so that’ll definitely be new.
Whaddya think?
I think I’m going to buy a Honda Fit for my winter car / daily driver. After that, my civic will be going into my parents garage for a… “makeover”.
Here’s my build idea:
- B18C1 bored out from 81mm to 81.5mm to ensure the cylinders are round
- re-grind the crank
- new main bearings
- forged rods
- forged wrist pins
- forged pistons (Endyn Roller-Wave) bumping the compression up from 10.0:1 to 10.5:1
- New piston and oil rings (duh)
- Send my Jackson Racing Super Charger out to be ported / polished and modified for a water-to-air after-cooler.
- Mild head build with port and polish
- New valve guides
- Stock valves
- Upgraded springs and titanium retainers
- Turbo camshafts (to reduce intake / exhaust overlap and keep the charge in the cylinder)
- Adjustable cam gears (to further adjust overlap)
- 440 injectors
- new, higher flowing fuel pump
- New head studs
- New seals (cam, etc.)
- better gaskets (intake, exhaust, head, etc.)
- better flowing exhaust header (Kamakazi 2.5”)
- new ecu tuning program
- MFactory Limited Slip Differential
Doing all of this should prevent VTEC smoke and bump the horse power to the ground up to about… 210whp (from ~140whp).
Then, full engine bay shave and tuck. Battery and fuse box relocation. Brake line relocation. Full removal of windshield fluid assembly, Air conditioning, and whatever else I find. We’ll see if I do anything with the wiring harness. At the very least I need to clean up my shabby wiring that I did for the engine swap.
See previous post for previously completed work.
This is why I said to inspect everything. My piston seals are bulging and, I think, leaking braking fluid. That would explain why the inside is wet. The passenger side caliper was dry as a bone. Next project, replace the seals. And, this is a COMPLETE pain in the ass to do. I’m not looking forward this project. I rebuilt these calipers before I installed them so, most likely, I messed this up.
